Written by guest and author, Donette Dunaway Lee- Author of Hither and Yon
The references to Pat Conroy and the Lowcountry on Facebook caught my attention. When Susie McMahon of Luxe Lowcountry Travel opened up registration for her getaway for March of 2022, I was in a hospital bed following emergency surgery in March of 2021. She said that the group would be limited to 14 people and I didn’t want to miss out so I sent my deposit to Susie by PayPal from my hospital bed. The actual trip to Beaufort, South Carolina, exceeded that one year of expectations. When I travel, journaling in a sketchbook helps me keep my memories alive; I will share a few of my sketches and comments here.
Wednesday, March 9
Arriving at the Beaufort Inn I was welcomed at the front desk with a gift bag in Susie’s signature seafoam blue. Inside was information for the week plus a seafoam blue insulated mug and a gift voucher from a local merchant. Just enough time was left to change clothes before our introduction to a group of authors whose books we had been busily reading in advance.
The first event of the Getaway was a Meet and Greet with nine authors, poets, memoirists, and writers of mystery and literary fiction. Visiting with Cassandra King Conroy was a thrill for me, having loved her account of her life with Pat in her book Tell Me a Story.
Debbi Covington catered a delightful array of miniature ham and cheese panini, pimento cheese in tiny croissants, and chocolate truffle cups to accompany the wine.
By the time we returned to our rooms we were ready to crash. The large, well-appointed accommodations at the historic Beaufort Inn made that comfortable and restful. We looked forward to using our breakfast vouchers provided by the Inn the following morning at one of three nearby restaurants; of course, that was after we enjoyed making our own coffee in our room.
Thursday, March 10
Our carriage ride from Southurn Tours was narrated by our driver, giving witty insight into the town’s history. Her huge horse Max, almost 20 hands tall, plodded slowly enough for her to point out antebellum homes, historic cemeteries, salt marshes, and centuries-old churches.
We saw the monument to Robert Smalls, which is mounted in the side yard of the Tabernacle
Baptist Church. This former slave managed to commandeer a Confederate vessel and escape to freedom with his family. We were also shown the house that he was able to buy after the war, the same one behind which he grew up in the slave quarters. Before our trip, I had read Trouble the Waters by Rebecca Dwight Bruff, her historical fiction account of his life.
My favorite event of the day was a personal tour of the Conroy Center by its executive director, Jonathan Haupt. The brick building, recently purchased and renovated, houses massive amounts of Pat Conroy memorabilia. Photographs from his early family, high school, college, and writing career grace the walls in every room. Presiding over everything is a nearly life-size and very life-like portrait of Pat, smiling with his characteristic twinkling eyes. Also on display are many letters and manuscripts all in Pat’s small cursive handwriting with which he produced all 12 of his books. (Pat did not type.) The desk and chair where most of his work was completed are also on display.
I loved learning about the movies filmed in Beaufort. After Pat convinced producers that The Great Santini be made there, in 1979, the town attracted other moviemakers. One of the antebellum homes was procured in 1983 as the location of The Big Chill. It was also the site for much of Forrest Gump. When Barbra Streisand decided to make The Prince of Tides into a movie she was not in favor of using Beaufort for the movie. Pat persuaded her that it was the only location to which he would agree.
On Friday a ferryboat took us to Daufuskie Island (there are no bridges). As we neared the end of the dock we saw the Authentic Gullah Tour 15 passenger van waiting as Sallie Ann Robinson approached us with open arms.
We were eager to meet one of Pat Conroy’s 6th-grade students from his year teaching on the island. Sallie Ann is a phenomenal storyteller and tour guide, regaling us with tales about childhood and assuring us that everything in Pat’s book The Water is Wide is absolutely true. She said that having him as a teacher, even for such a short time, was a life-changing experience for her. He remained a mentor and supporter of hers for the rest of his life.
We visited the old schoolhouse, a museum, and two churches that are still used for services. Pointing to the old-fashioned pump organ Sallie Ann asked “Anyone know how to play?” My sister spoke up “Donette can play.” As I sat down and placed my feet on the heavy pedals I realized that I was not strong enough to pump the air that it takes to operate the organ. So Trish jumps up, grabs Brenda, and says “we’ll help.” On either side of me with Trish pushing the left pedal and Brenda alternating with the right pedal, we produced enough sound for a rendition of Amazing Grace. Donette and the Pumpers were a hit.
One of Sallie Ann’s businesses is catering. She has published several award-winning cookbooks which have been featured in Southern Living magazine among others. Her royal blue house with white trim is across the street from her childhood school.
We were treated to a delightful lunch in her home. Fried chicken, potato salad, okra soup, and mixed berry cobbler were tasty and plentiful as we ate under the branches of a huge moss-covered live oak tree. Our day on the island that Pat Conroy dubbed Yammacraw in his book will remain a vivid memory for me.
Saturday, March 12
Visiting one of the oldest antebellum homes in Beaufort was our morning outing. The home is a showplace of lush gardens, salt marsh vistas, and beautifully appointed rooms full of antiques. Arriving at 10:00 for brunch we were first invited to wander through the gardens and visit the guest house behind. A two-room suite in the little pink house was the location where Conroy wrote his first book. During brunch, we had the opportunity to visit with some of the authors. I sat with Valerie Sayers to hear her describe her experience in Pat’s psychology classroom. She eventually taught creative writing herself at Notre Dame.
No trip is complete without time for shopping. After the brunch, we had time to stroll along Bay Street to peek into the numerous gift shops, art galleries, clothing stores, and coffee shops. The downtown of Beaufort is alive and thriving; it is a shopper’s delight. Of course we managed to find a few special items that we “needed.”
It’s hard to choose a favorite event on a weekend like this but surely the panel of Friends of Conroy ranked at the top for me. Moderator Donna Keel Armer introduced Marly Rusoff, Valerie Sayers, Scott Graber, and John Warley, all with published writings but most importantly, close friends of Pat’s. Several panel members read passages from the book that was compiled after his death; Our Prince of Scribes contains 67 essays written by friends, family, colleagues, and mentees of Pat Conroy. Invariably every single one describes his generosity toward emerging writers and his exuberant love of life.
Our farewell dinner Saturday night was Lowcountry boil with the familiar menu of shrimp, sausage, corn on the cob, and new potatoes cooked together and served with cocktail sauce. A beautifully decorated cake was served in honor of Jonathan Haupt’s 49th birthday. He and his 3 student interns presented an enlightening slideshow “Pat Conroy as a Lifelong Learner.”
It was a fitting end to an immersive look at one of the most influential writers of our generation. If I had not already known that Pat Conroy is my favorite author, the Lowcountry Literary & Leisure Getaway would have convinced me.
Want to find more information about the 2nd Annual Lowcountry Literary and Leisure Getaway? Click here for details and registration information: Lowcountry Literary and Leisure Getaway 2023- DETAILS
